***

PRE-TRIAL QUESTIONNAIRE

Before the trial, these were the age groups of  our participants. (Data for all participants).

These were their clinical needs and concerns. Radiance/brightness, puffiness and lines and wrinkles – these all are a target for the new therapy.

14th April 2013: INTERIM RESULTS

28th April 2013: FINAL RESULTS

(9 photo shoots completed, only 7 questionnaires completed)

Please bear in mind that this a snapshot. Colds, bad night sleep (and different lighting and angle when taking the photo) influence the appearance of the eye area significantly.

FaceWorkshops Rating and Summary:

3 out of 5 for younger age group / 2.75 out of 5 for older age group

The main effect is hydration – reducing fine lines that stem from dehydration and increasing evenness of the eye area that, particularly in younger participants, enhances its radiance. The product is not recommended for sensitive eyes.

***

Gentle massage of the eye area is a beneficial part of every skincare routine but our expectations of product efficacy are high.

• More that 2/3 of the group saw some improvement but not significant enough to continue using the product or recommend it to a friend.
• After the initial results – seen already after two weeks – there is no dramatic improvement (however, the manufacturers recommend that product is used at least for four weeks).

Looking at the individual scores, it is apparent that younger participants fair slightly better. The less damaged the area, the better the results. 

Good sleeping patterns and higher water intake seem to play a role!

The emotion of the Spring is anger, which is not necessarily a negative thing. If we understand anger as the impulse to create change, then we see that it can be a very positive and dynamic force when it is channelled in a healthy way. Looking inward at our bodies, the Liver and the Gallbladder are the internal organs associated with the spring energy. In the context of Chinese medicine, these organs are in charge of smooth flow throughout the body and they have particular influence over the eyes, the joints, tendons and ligaments, the reproductive system, the blood, and some aspects of digestion.

It is time for things that have been resting and replenishing, germinating and gestating, hidden and gathering power through the cold and quiet winter, to emerge and burst forth, take form and assert themselves. So it goes with our plans and aspirations – this is the time when the unformed idea begins to take on shape and detail. A time to do, we define our vision, focus our energy, make decisions and take action. When the inevitable obstacles arise, we stay rooted while remaining flexible and seeking a new path. If our own, internal springtime energy is strong, then creative flow and adapting to change will come easily to us. However, if our springtime energy is out of balance, we may lack vision and focus or we may lack the decisiveness and firmness of purpose to achieve our vision. We may be thrown off by changes and obstacles, either becoming rigid, and angry when things do not go according to plan or feeling so hopeless and frustrated that we give up on our goals.

Spring Feel Good Activities 

• Get outside. Outdoor air helps the chi flow, as does exercise. If you find yourself feeling irritable, lethargic, or stuck, find some time for an outdoor activity. Hiking, gardening, golf, bicycling – whatever suits you!
• Express yourself and Envision Possibility! Dancing, cooking, writing, making art or music… See your life growing beyond present obstacles. Write your goals and dreams, take one step at a time, take this season as an opportunity to examine what you would like to change in your life. Make a plan and start putting the steps in action and walk steadily towards your north star. Any form of creative expression helps nourish and channel Wood energy in a healthy way.
• Eat Green. Not surprisingly, green is the colour that goes with spring, wood, and the liver. Green, leafy foods are especially helpful to the liver chi. If you can find in-season baby greens, that’s the best! , spinach, fiddle ferns, wild leeks, watercress, etc., sprouts – all can improve the liver’s overall functions and aid in the movement of chi.
• Taste Sour. Sour foods also help soothe and smooth the liver chi, and can ease the transition into spring. Add lemon to your water, pickles to your sandwich, vinegar and olive oil dressings to your salad.
• Stretch. Taking a few minutes to stretch, do yoga or Tai Chi in the morning can help you move more fluidly through the day.
• Be Gentle. The Wood element in Chinese Medicine has a tendency towards frustration and impatience, so acknowledge yourself for your efforts, and kindly give yourself some time and space to get to where you’re going.

Adapted from deMamiel blog

Please answer YES/NO to the following questions.

Skin Type

• Do you understand your skin type, concerns and prognosis (ie. how your ageing will progress)?

Skincare & Facial Massage @ Home

• You are happy with your skincare routine?
• Do you like your skincare product formulations (textures/ fragrance)?
• Do you know specific techniques to apply your skincare in different facial zones?
• Do you massage your face at home?
• Do you practice personalised Rolling & Acupressure?
• Do you practice Facial Yoga?
• Do you look forward to using your skincare products twice a day ?
• Do you have realistic expectations regarding the efficacy of your skincare?

Seasonal and Hormonal Changes

• Do you have a personalised winter and summer routine?
• Do you understand how to prevent concerns arising from travelling and hormonal cycles?

Health & Lifestyle

• Do you understand the impact of your specific health issues (e.g. quality of sleep, allergies, medication) on your skin?
• Do you understand how your lifestyle (e.g. suntanning, smoking, alcohol, diet, water intake, exercise, relaxation, family support) affects your skin?

Professional Treatments

• Do you have regular professional treatments that complement your care @home – be that every 2, 4 or 6 weeks?

• Draw your concerns e.g. frown lines, laughter lines, pigmentation patches into the picture.
• List your frequent emotions and facial expressions to see what muscles you engage repetitively.

The Claims Clarins Make

• Engineered by many years of plant science, the NEW Double Serum® [Hydric + Lipidic System] combines two powerful age-defying serums into one optimum balance to help fight all aspects of visible ageing.
• The only intensive anti-ageing treatment rich in 20 plant extracts that revitalizes the skin’s 5 vital functions.
• A unique formula that promises a visibly youthful look: firmer skin, visibly reduced wrinkles, more even complexion and less visible pores.

Testing

• 90% of women agree that Double Serum is more effective than their regular serum*
• After 1 week, skin is more radiant (Satisfaction test on 194 women)
• After 4 weeks, skin looks firmer, wrinkles appear reduced and pores less visible (Satisfaction test on 194 women)

This is a “satisfaction test” on 126 women, i.e. a questionnaire measuring subjective views, primarily on the “feel of the product”.

Ingredients (INCI list)

The Main Active Ingredients

Mineral Oil. Glycerin. Oxydendron Arboreum Leaf/Stem Extract (Native American Sourwood tree). Sodium PCA (sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid)

The four ingredients above are present in quantities that are higher than perfume and preservative in the formulation. In my view, they form the basis of the product efficacy.

• Mineral oil provides skin with an occlusive, protective film.
• Glycerin and sodium PCA increase skin hydration and facilitate skin health.
• Sourwood was used in Native American medicine for treating mouth sores and irritated skin.

The remaining active ingredients are present in smaller quantities, they are all listed below the perfume and preservative levels!

• Plant seed oils nourishing the skin (macadamia, rosehip, avocado, perilla (Asian herb of mint family), mastic gum, sunflower) and vitamin E
• Plant extracts with antioxidant (UV protective), soothing, exfoliating, brightening and moisturising properties (oat kernel, parsley, maritime pine extract, atractylodes lancea (Chinese herb), arnica, tomato, quinoa, green tea extract, banana, thyme, kiwi, hops, chestnut, burdock, Katrafay (bush from Madagascar), Bocoa (plant from South America), marshmallow)
• Hydrating hyaluronic acid
• Salicyloyl phytosphingosine, a ceramide (skin lipid identical) derivative for repair of sun-damaged skin
• A tiny amount of brightening vitamin C and anti-ageing pentapeptide-31.

FaceWorkshops Opinion:

When reading the claims above, we feel we are looking at a nourishing plant-based product. Its fragrance is pleasant and strong. The serum feels silky and smooth on application.

However, it is a mineral-oil based serum with some hydrating and soothing ingredients and small quantities of local and exotic plant oils and extracts.

Research shows that mineral oil improves skin softness and barrier function better than many plant oils. It has physical effects on the skin – hydrating and occluding – which translate into biological effects.

But it is a petroleum derived ingredient that has been around since late 1800s. It is used in skincare due to its “cost to efficacy value” making the products profitable (this might be fine for a mass market moisturiser).

Expert Rating 3.5/5

I would like to see higher levels of plant oils and extracts as well as ceramides in premium skincare brand.

In A Nutshell: It is a smoothing, occlusive serum with fairly strong fragrance. Great for cold winter months and for mature, dry skin. Skin benefits will most likely be linked to occlusion and hydration – 1) improved skin texture and 2) reduced fine lines. Although classed as non-comedogenic, I would not recommend it for oily skin types (or T-zone of combination skin). Though the mineral oil and hydrating actives might be protective for sensitive skin, the high levels of fragrance are inappropriate.

References

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22994201

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18489360

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Buffing Beads

• I advise my clients NOT to use sharp apricot kernel chips and salt crystals when exfoliating their faces, these are too harsh for facial skin.
• Polyethylene beads are round and inexpensive, however, not great for the environment.
• Jojoba beads based scrubs, on the other hand, are great but fairly expensive.
• The alternative is to create a tailored exfoliator with buffing beads – mixing them with your cleanser or mask.

WEI POMEGRANATE BUFFING BEADS, £16 for 3 saches from SpaceNK

Finely milled pomegranate peels and delicate beads buff away dead skin, encouraging the growth of new cells and revealing the brighter, younger skin 

FaceWorkshops: Gentle exfoliation for brighter, even skin tone. In line with Asian principles. Sustainable. 

Also Emma Hardie has “Aromatherapy infused rosehip exfoliating seeds” in her Natural Lift Starter Kit. Available from SpaceNK. 

***

Elemental Herbology Facial Glow, £39 for 50 ml

Apple AHAs, papaya, orange peel, tangerine and non-abrasive jojoba beads provide gentle exfoliation that’s suitable for even sensitive skin, while antioxidant vitamin C protects from ageing, reduces pigmentation and stimulates collagen production. Pores are unblocked too, relieving congestion and further improving skin’s overall appearance. 

FaceWorkshops: Quick mask/peel with for dull and dehydrated skin. Not for extremely sensitive skin types. Brightening. Caution with timing!

***

Dr Brandt “Pores No More”, £39 for 30 ml

Pores appear smaller when we maintain them as clean and “empty” as possible but concealing them with specific products is a great strategy.

FaceWorkshops: Pores No More is a silicone and linseed seed extract based product with small amount of lavender and tea tree essential oil. It is a top layer designed to soften and conceal the visibility of conspicuous pores. 

INGREDIENTS:

Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Water, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearyl Fumarate, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, Magnesium Silicate, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Octyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Methylparaben, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Dimethyloxobenzo Dioxasilane, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxide (CI 77491), Iron Oxide (CI 77492), Iron Oxide (CI 77499). 6/7/09

Just a few examples of masks that are widely available and focus on barrier repair and skin hydration. These masks are great for all skin types – except of acne prone, oily skin.

FOCUS ON BARRIER REPAIR – DRY, DEHYDRATING SKIN WITH “TIGHT FEELING” AND REDNESS

Super Restorative Replenishing Comfort Mask; Clarins; £54 for 75 ml

Clarins claims – soft, supple texture and a healthy-looking glow.

They say the product tightens and defines facial contours, helps to restore a youthful vitality to mature skin challenged by natural hormonal changes due to the ageing process.

FaceWorkshops: this is a restorative mask for dry, mature and dehydrated skin types with a focus on barrier repair. Efficacy due to Glycerol (hydration). Shea Butter (emollient, barrier function repair). Mango Oil (emollient, nourishment). 

 ***

FOCUS ON HYDRATION AND SMOOTH PRODUCT FEEL

Eve Lom Moisture Mask, SPACE NK owned brand, £65 for 100 ml

Claims include skin hydration, replenishment, leaving skin feeling supple and soft, preventing dehydration. 

FaceWorkshops: Hydrating mask with a focus on product feel for all skin types, even combination skin. Efficacy based on Glycerin (hydration). Coconut derived lipids (emollient). Sodium PCA and Urea (replenishing skin Natural Moisturising Factor – but in small amounts).  

INGREDIENTS: AQUA (WATER), GLYCERIN, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, COCONUT ALKANES, GLYCERYL POLYACRYLATE, ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, PHENOXYETHANOL, POLYGLYCERYL-3 OLEATE, PROPANEDIOL, COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE, TOCOPHEROL, SODIUM PCA, UREA, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, SODIUM HYALURONATE, TREHALOSE, LECITHIN, AVENA STRIGOSA SEED EXTRACT, LEUCONOSTOC/RADISH ROOT FERMENT FILTRATE, LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM (HONEYSUCKLE) FLOWER EXTRACT, POLYQUATERNIUM-51, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, PHYTIC ACID, HYDROXYPROPYL BISPALMITAMIDE MEA, LONICERA JAPONICA (HONEYSUCKLE) FLOWER EXTRACT, POTASSIUM SORBATE.

***

FOCUS ON QUICK HYDRATION 

HydraQuench Cream-Mask, Clarins, £33 for 75 ml

Claims - comforting, soothing formula that restores an ideal moisture balance to dry, dehydrated skin in just 5-10 minutes.

FaceWorkshops: Hydrating mask for all skin types – even sensitive and combination skin types. Efficacy based on Glycerin (hydration). VERY small amounts of vitamin E (antioxidant), Pyrus sorbus tree bud extract (improving capillary wall and microcirculation) and Katafray bark extract (improving skin barrier function) as well as the hydrating hyaluronic acid. 

INCI: GLYCERIN, STEARIC ACID, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, CYCLOMETHICONE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, CETEARYL  ETHYLHEXANOATE, CETYL ALCOHOL, CETEARETH-12, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, POLYACRYLAMIDE, FRAGRANCE, TROMETHAMINE, CARBOMER, C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, PYRUS SORBUS BUD EXTRACT, CEDRELOPSIS GREVEL BARK EXTRACT, DISODIUM EDTA, GLYCERYL ACRYLATE/ACRYLIC ACID COPOLYMER, LAURETH-7, SODIUM HYALURONATE, PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE.

Our faces change during the day and this is an interesting experiment. The comments are Anna’s own. Harsh at times. My comments are in italics. What could Anna do to look better during the day? Please comment below!

7am

Morning face. According to a new study on how our faces change from hour to hour and day to day, by 3.30pm we look the worst. Morning faces are less wrinkled than in the afternoon because lying down means gravity lets up a little overnight.

Anna’s morning face at 7am (l) and looking rosy and glowing at 10.15am post run (r)

10.15am

Post morning run training for a marathon. People with skin type prone to redness should avoid strenuous exercise and extremes of temperature or risk broken capillaries. The increased blood flow has at least done something for those early morning under-eye bags. However, the lines around her mouth have deepened.

In my view, excessive running is not the best for sagging cheeks and jawline. 

 11.15am

Make-up - while the application of foundation has made her look less flustered, it has also highlighted the creases above the eyebrows.

Anna wears make-up at 11.15am (l) and feels the beauty nadir is approaching already at 12.30pm (r)

12.30am

She look ashen and exhausted. Her lipstick and foundation have long disappeared, while her eyeliner and mascara are fading. Adding caffeine makes her deep frown lines in the forehead and creases around her mouth appear.

3.30pm

Welcome to the beauty low spot – particularly on Wednesdays. Her face still looks oily – spotty, even – from the run but the make-up wore off long ago. Those eye bags have reappeared too. After a snack, the guilt and sugar rush are definitely showing in her face –  a shine on her forehead and the end of the nose, and her ageing- dimples deepen.

Anna’s beauty low spot at 3.30pm (l) as identified by research for St. Tropez Anti-Ageing, and her hair is rebelling by 7pm post-ballet class (r)

7pm

Although she is looking less greasy than in the previous picture, her face is starting to look pallid, her wrinkles around the chin and nose are deepening.

A day in the life of a face: Anna puts on make up to go out for the evening

8pm

Make-up applied, still a bit tired. The final look in the mirror – lots of laughter lines have appeared around her mouth and eyes, probably accentuated by her foundation, but her eyeliner and mascara and lipstick has given her face some warmth.

Looking human again but tired still at 8pm (l) and ready for bed once more at 11pm (r)

11pm

Make-up taken off. Staring at the mirror she feels she looks terrible without make-up. Greenish circles around her eyes and a deep line has emerged above the left eye, which wasn’t there this morning. Her double chin is now very noticeable. The overpowering tiredness she feels can clearly be seen on her face. Her face has had its own journey as she has gone about her day and has its own story to tell.

What could have Anna done to look better through the day?  Please write your comments – I will publish my recommendations shortly! 
Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2274641/A-day-life-face-In-extraordinary-picture-diary-Anna-Pursglove-shows-faces-change-single-day.html#ixzz2KVOV19XC

Cetaphil has been recommended for women who use more make-up on daily basis – it is “The Red Carpet cleanser” for models and celebrities who cleanse in excess between make-overs.

In my practice, the products seem to be well tolerated even by sensitive skin types. I recommend the cleanser for spring and summer skincare routines in cases where essential oils might aggravate sensitive skin. 

FaceWorkshops Club Comments:

MOISTURISING LOTION

- I’ve been using this product on and off for over ten years and it’s one of my favourite products. I like that its fragrance free and great for sensitive skin. It really soothes my dry skin during the winter months. It would be my ideal product if it had an SPF. It’s also very well priced for such an effective moisturizer. I would highly recommend it. (30 + member, combination to dry skin type)

- I liked the feel of the Lotion, it is smooth and silky, non perfumed and it melts quickly into the skin and doesn’t leave any stickiness.  After use, my skin feels soft and well moisturised.  I have not had any reaction to the product and I really like the lotion. (60 + member, combination/sensitive skin type)

CLEANSER

Aqua (purified water), cetyl alcohol, propylene glycol, sodium lauryl sulfate, stearyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben