Sun Protection: Applying Enough?

Government recommendation that sunscreens with an SPF of 15 are sufficient to prevent sunburn – and the subsequent potential cancer risk -  is based on standard test conditions, not on how much the public use on their skin in reality!

During the testing, manufacturers apply 2 mg/cm² of the sunscreen to the skin but in real life people usually apply much less, only around a quarter to half of this amount (0.5 – 1 mg/cm²) and reduce the protection indicated by the labelled SPF. Therefore, a sunscreen with a high SPF such as 50 will only give an SPF of between 3 and 19.

To meet the government recommendation, an adult would need to use 35ml of sunscreen (SPF15) per application. If reapplied every two hours, as is also recommended, a standard 200ml bottle would be used up in two to three days. This is impractical and expensive.

Sunscreens carry the ‘Boots star rating system’, which indicates the ratio of UVA and UVB protection. As discussed in a previous blog, the SPF refers to the amount of UVB protection offered and the stars indicate UVA protection; more stars, more UVA protection. UVA makes up more than 95 per cent of UV radiation and contributes to ageing, UVB is the main cause of sunburn. A 5-star product at a lower SPF (SPF 15) could provide less protection than a 3-star product at a higher SPF (SPF 30), so apply higher factors to all unprotected areas. Spread sunscreen evenly rather than rub it in and re-apply regularly.

http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Market-Trends/Advice-on-sunscreen-not-so-NICE-for-UK-public-claims-DTB

Facial Moisturisers: Does Skincare Work?

At my talk to the Society of Cosmetic Scientists last week, the discussion revolved around the real performance of skincare. The industry agreed with me that skincare will never match the instant results (and risks) of surgery but small step-by-step visible improvements (like when we exercise) benefit our appearance. The SCS president emailed later to say “I used your gym analogy to a reporter from The Sunday Telegraph on Friday who was writing a piece on whether skincare works…” Analogies help to illustrate what to really expect in the ever-so-hyped world of skincare. But let’s look at the facts now.

• Unilever research shows that a well-formulated moisturiser will improve wrinkles by at least one grade (1/5 on a 5 grade wrinkle scale) in 6 months. This will be a visible result – people will notice and compliment you on a softer, plumper look!
• A benchmark dermatologist prescription treatment, retinoic acid, will improve wrinkles by two grades (2/5 on a 5 grade wrinkle scale) in 6 months but often with side effects including redness, scaling and inflammation.
• Using a skincare routine with ingredients matched to your skin type and concerns will improve the results.
• As always I hasten to add that skincare only accounts for 1/3 of the success! Youthful looks require well-shaped muscles and good jawline definition achieved by regular anti-ageing facial massage and exercise!

Have you seen the change in the mirror yet? See the results for yourself.

Garnier, a L’Oreal company, launched an interesting campaign. Davina has a dry skin type and, as any presenter, using strong facial expressions and being in and out of make-up all the time, she is prone to premature lines and wrinkles.

I don’t recommend Garnier for dry/mature skin types very often as there are no anti-ageing peptides in the formulation. But this is a fun exercise to see how well your anti-ageing moisturiser works!

Please note that the Garnier wrinkle scale has 10 grades (not 5 as the research scale above). That means you should see a difference earlier!

Link to YouTube Garnier Ultralift Challenge

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvvcNMGuDxU

Link to the Wrinkle Reader

http://www.ultraliftchallenge.co.uk/GarnierUltraLift_range_ruler.html

Ageing in the Sun

Sun is the dominant factor in the onset of premature ageing! Had we always protected our faces, the way Japanese women often do, our skin would age in a different, subtle way.

Ageing with sun protection

Our aged face would have a smooth and even surface with only few fine wrinkles. We would be able to distinquish some loss of elasticity (due to thickenned, disoriented bundles) and thinning (atrophy) but no signs of inflammation and only a moderate decrease in perfusion giving our facial skin slightly drawn, pale appearance. The upper skin layer, epidermis, would be still working well in comparison to photo-aged skin.

Ageing in the sun (photo-ageing)

If we have suntanned all our life, our facial skin will have an uneven (bumpy) surface and sallow, yellowish tone with mottled pigmentation (sun spots). We will see coarse wrinkles and a severe loss of elasticity (due to the thickening of dermis and increase in elastotic amorphous mass, less structural fibres and underlying inflammation).  Also the capillaries become prominent on the skin surface (teleangiectasia) contributing to the uneven skin colour. Epidermal changes – and the risk of skin cancer – are also profound.

If – like me – you would rather your face aged in a subtle way, read below on how to protect your face during summer.

Source: http://tinyurl.com/32w7exe