FaceWorkshops Club: April 2013

Please give your specific product feedback – not Eye Roller – below. Thank you.

The Olay Regenerist Eye Roller

Many thanks to all participants who tested the NEW Olay Regenerist Eye Roller from 1st April to 28th April 2013 applying the product according to the instructions twice a day.

***

PRE-TRIAL QUESTIONNAIRE

Before the trial, these were the age groups of  our participants. (Data for all participants).

These were their clinical needs and concerns. Radiance/brightness, puffiness and lines and wrinkles – these all are a target for the new therapy.

14th April 2013: INTERIM RESULTS

28th April 2013: FINAL RESULTS

(9 photo shoots completed, only 7 questionnaires completed)

Please bear in mind that this a snapshot. Colds, bad night sleep (and different lighting and angle when taking the photo) influence the appearance of the eye area significantly.

FaceWorkshops Rating and Summary:

3 out of 5 for younger age group / 2.75 out of 5 for older age group

The main effect is hydration – reducing fine lines that stem from dehydration and increasing evenness of the eye area that, particularly in younger participants, enhances its radiance. The product is not recommended for sensitive eyes.

***

Gentle massage of the eye area is a beneficial part of every skincare routine but our expectations of product efficacy are high.

• More that 2/3 of the group saw some improvement but not significant enough to continue using the product or recommend it to a friend.
• After the initial results – seen already after two weeks – there is no dramatic improvement (however, the manufacturers recommend that product is used at least for four weeks).

 

Looking at the individual scores, it is apparent that younger participants fair slightly better. The less damaged the area, the better the results. 

Good sleeping patterns and higher water intake seem to play a role!

FaceWorkshops Review: The New Clarins Double Serum

The Clarins Double Serum; £55 for 30 ml

The Claims Clarins Make

• Engineered by many years of plant science, the NEW Double Serum® [Hydric + Lipidic System] combines two powerful age-defying serums into one optimum balance to help fight all aspects of visible ageing.
• The only intensive anti-ageing treatment rich in 20 plant extracts that revitalizes the skin’s 5 vital functions.
• A unique formula that promises a visibly youthful look: firmer skin, visibly reduced wrinkles, more even complexion and less visible pores.

Testing

• 90% of women agree that Double Serum is more effective than their regular serum*
• After 1 week, skin is more radiant (Satisfaction test on 194 women)
• After 4 weeks, skin looks firmer, wrinkles appear reduced and pores less visible (Satisfaction test on 194 women)

This is a “satisfaction test” on 126 women, i.e. a questionnaire measuring subjective views, primarily on the “feel of the product”.

Ingredients (INCI list)

The Main Active Ingredients

Mineral Oil. Glycerin. Oxydendron Arboreum Leaf/Stem Extract (Native American Sourwood tree). Sodium PCA (sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid)

The four ingredients above are present in quantities that are higher than perfume and preservative in the formulation. In my view, they form the basis of the product efficacy.

• Mineral oil provides skin with an occlusive, protective film.
• Glycerin and sodium PCA increase skin hydration and facilitate skin health.
• Sourwood was used in Native American medicine for treating mouth sores and irritated skin.

The remaining active ingredients are present in smaller quantities, they are all listed below the perfume and preservative levels!

• Plant seed oils nourishing the skin (macadamia, rosehip, avocado, perilla (Asian herb of mint family), mastic gum, sunflower) and vitamin E
• Plant extracts with antioxidant (UV protective), soothing, exfoliating, brightening and moisturising properties (oat kernel, parsley, maritime pine extract, atractylodes lancea (Chinese herb), arnica, tomato, quinoa, green tea extract, banana, thyme, kiwi, hops, chestnut, burdock, Katrafay (bush from Madagascar), Bocoa (plant from South America), marshmallow)
• Hydrating hyaluronic acid
• Salicyloyl phytosphingosine, a ceramide (skin lipid identical) derivative for repair of sun-damaged skin
• A tiny amount of brightening vitamin C and anti-ageing pentapeptide-31.

FaceWorkshops Opinion:

When reading the claims above, we feel we are looking at a nourishing plant-based product. Its fragrance is pleasant and strong. The serum feels silky and smooth on application.

However, it is a mineral-oil based serum with some hydrating and soothing ingredients and small quantities of local and exotic plant oils and extracts.

Research shows that mineral oil improves skin softness and barrier function better than many plant oils. It has physical effects on the skin – hydrating and occluding – which translate into biological effects.

But it is a petroleum derived ingredient that has been around since late 1800s. It is used in skincare due to its “cost to efficacy value” making the products profitable (this might be fine for a mass market moisturiser).

Expert Rating 3.5/5

I would like to see higher levels of plant oils and extracts as well as ceramides in premium skincare brand.

In A Nutshell: It is a smoothing, occlusive serum with fairly strong fragrance. Great for cold winter months and for mature, dry skin. Skin benefits will most likely be linked to occlusion and hydration – 1) improved skin texture and 2) reduced fine lines. Although classed as non-comedogenic, I would not recommend it for oily skin types (or T-zone of combination skin). Though the mineral oil and hydrating actives might be protective for sensitive skin, the high levels of fragrance are inappropriate.

References

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22994201

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18489360

Do You Like This Review? Subscribe to FaceWorkshops Blog below.

FaceWorkshops Club: March – Products Designed for Refining Pores

There are many ways of refining pores on the oilier T-zone but, at this time of the year, gentle exfoliation and concealing take preference. 

Buffing Beads

• I advise my clients NOT to use sharp apricot kernel chips and salt crystals when exfoliating their faces, these are too harsh for facial skin.
• Polyethylene beads are round and inexpensive, however, not great for the environment.
• Jojoba beads based scrubs, on the other hand, are great but fairly expensive.
• The alternative is to create a tailored exfoliator with buffing beads – mixing them with your cleanser or mask.

WEI POMEGRANATE BUFFING BEADS, £16 for 3 saches from SpaceNK

Finely milled pomegranate peels and delicate beads buff away dead skin, encouraging the growth of new cells and revealing the brighter, younger skin 

FaceWorkshops: Gentle exfoliation for brighter, even skin tone. In line with Asian principles. Sustainable. 

Also Emma Hardie has “Aromatherapy infused rosehip exfoliating seeds” in her Natural Lift Starter Kit. Available from SpaceNK. 

***

Elemental Herbology Facial Glow, £39 for 50 ml

Apple AHAs, papaya, orange peel, tangerine and non-abrasive jojoba beads provide gentle exfoliation that’s suitable for even sensitive skin, while antioxidant vitamin C protects from ageing, reduces pigmentation and stimulates collagen production. Pores are unblocked too, relieving congestion and further improving skin’s overall appearance. 

FaceWorkshops: Quick mask/peel with for dull and dehydrated skin. Not for extremely sensitive skin types. Brightening. Caution with timing!

***

Dr Brandt “Pores No More”, £39 for 30 ml

Pores appear smaller when we maintain them as clean and “empty” as possible but concealing them with specific products is a great strategy.

FaceWorkshops: Pores No More is a silicone and linseed seed extract based product with small amount of lavender and tea tree essential oil. It is a top layer designed to soften and conceal the visibility of conspicuous pores. 

INGREDIENTS:

Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Water, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearyl Fumarate, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, Magnesium Silicate, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Octyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Methylparaben, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Dimethyloxobenzo Dioxasilane, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxide (CI 77491), Iron Oxide (CI 77492), Iron Oxide (CI 77499). 6/7/09

FaceWorkshops Club: February – 20 mins Mask Application on Sunday

In my mind, mid March is the time of the year when our skin had enough of winter. Facial skin, in particular, becomes often dehydrated, with redness and oily as well as dry patches appearing simultaneously. The appropriate treatment is a weekly mask, applied for 20 minutes, ideally when relaxing, in the bath or watching a favourite movie on Sunday.  

Just a few examples of masks that are widely available and focus on barrier repair and skin hydration. These masks are great for all skin types – except of acne prone, oily skin.

FOCUS ON BARRIER REPAIR – DRY, DEHYDRATING SKIN WITH “TIGHT FEELING” AND REDNESS

Super Restorative Replenishing Comfort Mask; Clarins; £54 for 75 ml

Clarins claims – soft, supple texture and a healthy-looking glow.

They say the product tightens and defines facial contours, helps to restore a youthful vitality to mature skin challenged by natural hormonal changes due to the ageing process.

FaceWorkshops: this is a restorative mask for dry, mature and dehydrated skin types with a focus on barrier repair. Efficacy due to Glycerol (hydration). Shea Butter (emollient, barrier function repair). Mango Oil (emollient, nourishment). 

 ***

FOCUS ON HYDRATION AND SMOOTH PRODUCT FEEL

Eve Lom Moisture Mask, SPACE NK owned brand, £65 for 100 ml

Claims include skin hydration, replenishment, leaving skin feeling supple and soft, preventing dehydration. 

FaceWorkshops: Hydrating mask with a focus on product feel for all skin types, even combination skin. Efficacy based on Glycerin (hydration). Coconut derived lipids (emollient). Sodium PCA and Urea (replenishing skin Natural Moisturising Factor – but in small amounts).  

INGREDIENTS: AQUA (WATER), GLYCERIN, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, COCONUT ALKANES, GLYCERYL POLYACRYLATE, ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, PHENOXYETHANOL, POLYGLYCERYL-3 OLEATE, PROPANEDIOL, COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE, TOCOPHEROL, SODIUM PCA, UREA, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, SODIUM HYALURONATE, TREHALOSE, LECITHIN, AVENA STRIGOSA SEED EXTRACT, LEUCONOSTOC/RADISH ROOT FERMENT FILTRATE, LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM (HONEYSUCKLE) FLOWER EXTRACT, POLYQUATERNIUM-51, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, PHYTIC ACID, HYDROXYPROPYL BISPALMITAMIDE MEA, LONICERA JAPONICA (HONEYSUCKLE) FLOWER EXTRACT, POTASSIUM SORBATE.

***

FOCUS ON QUICK HYDRATION 

HydraQuench Cream-Mask, Clarins, £33 for 75 ml

 

Claims - comforting, soothing formula that restores an ideal moisture balance to dry, dehydrated skin in just 5-10 minutes.

FaceWorkshops: Hydrating mask for all skin types – even sensitive and combination skin types. Efficacy based on Glycerin (hydration). VERY small amounts of vitamin E (antioxidant), Pyrus sorbus tree bud extract (improving capillary wall and microcirculation) and Katafray bark extract (improving skin barrier function) as well as the hydrating hyaluronic acid. 

INCI: GLYCERIN, STEARIC ACID, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, CYCLOMETHICONE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, CETEARYL  ETHYLHEXANOATE, CETYL ALCOHOL, CETEARETH-12, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, POLYACRYLAMIDE, FRAGRANCE, TROMETHAMINE, CARBOMER, C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, PYRUS SORBUS BUD EXTRACT, CEDRELOPSIS GREVEL BARK EXTRACT, DISODIUM EDTA, GLYCERYL ACRYLATE/ACRYLIC ACID COPOLYMER, LAURETH-7, SODIUM HYALURONATE, PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE.

 

FaceWorkshops Club: Cetaphil

I have always liked Cetaphil although it is not a skincare line based on natural ingredients and it contains some SLS and parabens. The manufacturer Galderma market the products as adjunct to prescription treatment for skin conditions (acne, eczema, rosacea and psoriasis).

FaceWorkshops Club: Softer Frown Lines in 3 Days?

 

I am often asked to recommend “a quick fix” before an important event. This presents a challenge – if the client cannot come for a professional massage – Chinese Booster (for improved definition and lifting) or Japanese Facelift (softened look and glow).  Skincare is about caring for your face on a daily basis. However, with 3 days to go, this is one of the promising strategies.

The FaceWorkshops Club are testing Frownies  for glabellar or frown lines in October 2012. In particular, their claim that “Lines in their early stages will be softened in three nights”.

Using Frownies

1. Separate Frownies by gently tearing along the perforations. Use a single strip as pictured above (left).
2. Thoroughly cleanse, rinse and dry your face. If you use a moisturizer, allow it to absorb into your skin before applying Frownies.
3. Gently massage facial lines with fingertips for 10 seconds to stimulate circulation.
4. Moisten the shiny side of Frownies with lukewarm water to activate the vegetable-based adhesive.
5. Using two fingers of one hand, smooth your skin while pressing Frownies with the fingers of your other hand. Hold in place until pad adheres. Leave on overnight. Use for 3 consecutive nights!
6. To remove, thoroughly soak pads to release adhesive.

For more information http://www.frownies.com/apply.php

So far, 85% would buy Frownies again on Makeupalley.  FROWNIES’ Facial Patches have been called the ‘easiest wrinkle reducer’ by Good Housekeeping Magazine.

Please comment on how you felt about the product – the ease of application as well as efficacy below. Happy testing!

 

 

May 2012 FaceWorkshops Club: Facial Yoga for the Eyes

Are you exercising your eye area? 

Early research shows that facial zones age at different rates [Marrakchi 2007] and the eye area, in particular, is susceptible to premature ageing – due to squinting in the sun, computers, bad working conditions, lack of sleep, etc.

My clients quote the eye area to be their biggest concern. [FaceWorkshops Survey 2012]

We look people in the eye when forming a relationship. Our eyes are able to detect very slight changes in the eye area, we can distinquish a 20% change in skin surface topography eg. wrinkle depth. [Samson N, et al. 2010]

However, anti-wrinkle eye creams are used only by 22 % of people in the UK; 33 % in age group 45 – 54.

In order to deliver results, skincare has to team up with a smart application technique and facial exercise.

The FaceWorkshop Club members were encouraged to exercise their eye area,  doing 3 eye exercises, twice a day, for 7 days.

• First exercise was an eye movement (please note the video repeats the movement twice)

Exercise 1

• The second exercise was resistance training and the third exercise was an upper eyelid lift. Following the instructions, we did 20 repetitions twice for Exercise 2.

Exercise 2 and 3

• We did rest with palms on our eyes afterwards.

Please read the comments of the participants below, these are the subjectively assessed results.

Ren Bio Retinoid Anti-Ageing Concentrate

We are testing the Ren Bio Retinoid Anti-Ageing Concentrate this week.
More info about the product benefits to follow.

Ladies, the initial response I got is that the sample only lasted you three days rather than a week.

This is my error, please don’t include it in your reviews.
Again, these are small samples so if you can focus on the short-term feel of the formulation rather than the final effect which after few days cannot be that much. Thank you.
*****

The concentrate claims include:
Retinol results without irritation.
Increases collagen production by 24 % (in vitro tests).
Dramatically reduces the appearance of wrinkles, age spots and imperfections.
Skin looks firmer, plumper and more radiant.

FaceWorkshops Club Forum: Green Skincare (March 2012)

Prior to reviewing the benefits of Forest Secrets, let’s look at the Green Skincare Market in general. 

THE ORGANIC SKINCARE MARKET

The organic market has grown exponentially over the past decade. Global industry growth estimates are between 25 to 35 % and attributed to concerns over synthetic skincare. The eco-conscious consumers are more concerned about their own health, recycling, animal protection and also aware of the environmental impact of the industry. Skincare brands seek product certification and use sustainable practices with fair trade ethos.

SKINCARE INITIATIVES

Women’s Environmental Network runs Careful Beauty project highlighting the chemicals to avoid. Although I agree with promoting natural ingredients, I am yet to see whether their concerns are legitimate or myths.

INTERESTING BRANDS

• Live Nature uses only certified organic, vegan and wild harvested ingredients that are not exposed to temperatures above 47 C when formulating the products.
• Evolve

Other interesting brands include NUDE, Lavera, Organic Pharmacy, Dr Hauschka and REN. Most suppliers of organic skincare ingredients a part of Fair Trade cooperative.

Forest Secrets

• Unique liquid formulas of active ingredients that allow to be personalised, please read the comments of our FaceWorkshop Club Members below. 
• Mixing a serum (water-based) and elixir (oil-based). Serum contains. 
• ELIXIR. These are the key ingredients the Elixir contains: anti-ageing oils (milk thistle seed oil, argan oil, rose hip fruit oil), honeysuckle flower extract (antibacterial properties), lupin seed extract (promotes elasticity). Clinical data tba. 
• SERUM. These are the key ingredients the Serum contains: Aloe leaf juice, glycerin, mimosa bark extract, kinetin (improvement of hyper pigmentation, lines and wrinkles), agnus castus extract, sodium hyaluronate, ascorbic tetraisopalmitate, lactate. Clinical data tba.