Save or Spend? Lancome Genifique vs. L’Oreal Youth Code

Being an insider allows me to comment on the technology used in skincare: not many people understand that Lancome is a L’Oreal brand and sharing technologies across the board within one company is to be expected.

Genifique £55/30ml vs. L’Oréal Youth Code £17.19/30 ml

FaceWorkshops Recommendation: SAVE £37 (but only if you like more fragranced skincare).

- Both products contain Biolysat, an anti-ageing ingredient, beneficial for facial skin. There is some scientific evidence for  Biolysat, Adenosine, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine – albeit coming from L’Oreal and Degussa but published in peer reviewed journals. The main ingredients improve inflammation and skin sensitivity, however, the high level of alcohol is not ideal for sensitive skin types.

AESTHETICS:

  • As always with prestige skincare, the aesthetics of Genifique is more refined and there is less perfume than in the Youth Code.

EFFICACY: 

  • Genifique contains more of Hyaluronic acid (temporary plumping effect through hydration) and Adenosine, less Salicyloyl phytosphingosine and no Peptides. 

The products have similar efficacy – save your money and buy the Youth Code if happy with the stronger perfume! Personally, I like the Genifique texture more with more hyaluronic acid and no peptides. 

Read more about both products..


PRESTIGE SKINCARE

Genifique – a serum that promises to “reactivate” the youth in your genes. Lancome’s Genifique marketing materials are pushing the envelope to say that this is Lancôme first skincare that boosts the activity of genes that produce specific proteins that with age diminish. Alter your genes? As would any moisturiser that is beneficial in altering the properties of stratum corneum, the upper skin layer.

ANALYSIS OF INGREDIENTS

Bio-Lysat (bifida ferment lysate) is a probiotic supplement ingredient, a gram-positive bacteria Lactobacillusfound in the digestive system. Research conducted by Lancome and published in Experimental Dermatology (August 2010) used a Bifidobacterium longum reuter  topically on human skin, ex vivo, looking for markers of inflammation. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19624730

  • The bacterial concentrate decreased vasodilation, edema, and mast cell degranulation (inflammatory cells releasing inflammatory chemicals in your skin).
  • They also carried out a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial in 63 women with sensitive and rough facial skin using a cream with or without the 10% bacterial extract for 2 month. The active group showed less skin sensitivity, improved skin barrier function (they required more tape stripping of their skin to achieve the same amount of barrier disruption), thoughthe recovery time was not altered. The clinical and self assessment for facial skin roughness were significantly better for those using the bacterial cream. However, the epidermal samples looking at hydration were not different between the control cream and the bacterial cream. Bifidobacterium longum reuter showed reduced inflammatory reactions, sensitivity and improved skin barrier function as well as a difference in skin roughness and dryness but nor in hydration.

Phytosphingosine-SLC (Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine) A study, published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, suggests that salicyloyl-phytosphingosine (SP), when topically applied to the face, reduces the depth of wrinkles and improves skin texture in photoaged skin. The research was funded by Degussa, the ingredient manufacturer and there are no other independent studies. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18489360

Denatured alcohol – might be the cause of some reports of dryness, irritation and acne after using Genifique. It is #4 ingredient so the concentration is fairly high. An unfortunate choice of ingredient, particularly for mature, dry and sensitive skin types.

Genefique softens the skin and reduces lines and wrinkles, the serum is quickly absorbed and should be followed by a moisturiser!

Opinions FaceWorkshops Agree with:

“The introduction and marketing of Genifique, which flaunts gene research in its very name, has raised a few eyebrows in the scientific community. Scientists worry companies like Lancome are making exaggerated claims to consumers about gene therapy skin care. The backlash when expectations aren’t met may compromise future funding and hinder the advancement of one of the most promising fields of research today.” By wrinklecreamdoctor.com

Even when gene activity is reduced in aged skin, acting on that gene will not necessarily prevent wrinkling.

MASS MARKET SKINCARE:

Youth Code was launched in January 2010 in the UK. L’Oreal Paris introduces the new Youth Code Serum, 10 X more concentrated in the patented Pro-Gen® technology than the Youth Code Day Cream. An instant boost of youthfulness. Skin looks younger and more luminous. Apply Youth Code Day Serum daily all over the face, morning and night before using your day and night creams. The name Youth Code will remind many of the genetic code and the marketing materials talks about modulating gene expression. Youth Code is the mass market version of Lancome’s Genifique. The Youth Code adverts have a lots of asterisks refering to  “tested in vitro” ie. works well in a petri dish under controlled laboratory conditions, but may or may not work clinically on your face.

ANALYSIS OF INGREDIENTS

The anti-aging technology in Youth Code called GenActiv is a proprietary formula of three ingredients:

  • Bio-Lysat (bifida ferment lysate) – as above
  • Adenosine, a molecule that naturally exists in skin’s DNA and is essential to proper cell functioning; acts as an anti-wrinkle ingredient and stimulates protein synthesis. It has anti-inflammatory properties and has been shown to aid wound healing. There are two L’Oreal studies looking at the role of adenosine in ageing skin showing improvement in crow’s feet and wrinkles around the mouth.
  • Proprietary blend of peptides = Palmitoyl Oligopeptide & Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Genifique Ingredients:
Aqua/Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Dimenthicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, PEG-20 Methyl  Glucose Sesquistearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide/Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltaurate, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Caprylylglycol, Disodium EDTA, Octyldodecanol, Citric Acid, Citronellol, Parfum, Sodium Benzoate.

Youth Code Ingredients:
Aqua/Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Dimenthicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Peg-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquisterate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Adenosine, Ammonium. Polyacryldimethyltauramide, Disodium Edta, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Chrysin, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, and Parfum.

Source: http://bionic-beauty.com/review-lancome-genifique/, http://wrinklecreamdoctor.com, http://15minbeauty.blogspot.com

NEWS:  September 2012

In the USA, FDA warned Lancome (L’Oreal) for portraying Genifique as a drug with medical properties – based on advertisements claim that it “boosts the activity of genes” and contains special ingredients that “stimulate cell regeneration to reconstruct skin to a denser quality.”

Research shows that even vaseline application on the skin changes our genes but skincare companies cannot acknowledge it in their claims.

Source:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2204536/Lanc-slapped-FDA-warning-ad-anti-ageing-range-claims-boost-activity-genes.html

***

LAST BUT NOT LEAST – FaceWorkshops Review on AMAZON

Hydrating Serum with Good Efficacy (Not For Dry to Sensitive Skin Types),

31 Jan 2012

Genifique – a serum that promises to “reactivate” the youth in your genes – as would any moisturiser that is beneficial in altering the properties of stratum corneum, the upper skin layer. If you have combination or oilier skin type, it is a great pre-party serum! Although the main ingredients do improve inflammation and skin sensitivity, the high level of alcohol is not ideal for sensitive skin types.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/review/R1RX3V2UYQCBQ4

About these ads
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